Munich's Little Secret

With only 12 rows of pews, Asam’s Church is one of Munich’s smallest but most opulent churches. Take a look at these photos (panorama here), and you will see why. It’s spectacular! I’ll have to find another time to go inside. A wedding was occurring on this day, and many passers would sneak a peak of the bride in such a splendid setting. You can see in this photo the gold of the high altar, enclosed by four twisted columns. Above the high alter you will see an image of God in a Papal tiara, bending over the crucified Christ. The church was actually built in 1733 by two brothers (who lived next door) for their personal use, but the church later demanded that it be open to the public. The Catholic church’s real name is the Chruch of St. Johann Nepomuk, but everyone knows it by the brothers’ name – Egid & Cosmas Asam. The two brothers achieved one of the finest achievements in Bavarian late Baroque and rococo architecture, which was carefully restored in 1975. Today, the church and the home next to it, sit on one of Munich’s busiest shopping streets, Sendlingerstrasse.

Munich's Summer Fest

And today, cross the city for another Summer fest, a much larger one – Tollwood. Taking place at the foot of the Olympic hill this Summer fest runs through July 12th, and brings in top bands like Simple Minds; Foreigner; Amy MacDonald; Earth, Wind & Fire; and the Buena Vista Social Club. You will also find a mix of theatre, Salsa dancing, handcrafts, and kids play area. Of course, I’ve also described the festival as a bit of a hippy-fest with its all bio menu, but that’s a bit common in Munich as well. To its credit, for a town that often feels like it shuts down at 8 pm, the event is open til 1 a.m. Just one more example of how the city of Munich still utilizes its tremendous Olympic Park every single day.

Me and the Band

That’s the feeling in the Tunix festival going on this week behind the Glyptotek museum and produced by the Technical University of Munich. The four-day festival, which has been going on for the past 25 years, has brought the neighborhood to life – if for no other reason for the loud music that has rolled into the night around Maxvorstadt. The festival is free, organized by the student body, and mostly filled with students from the University next door. And to bring out the students, they’ve selected the top local bands around. Acutally, Tunix represents only one of the three festivals at the university, including StuStaCalum and Garnix. All are a great success for the Univeristy. Just to be consistent with yesterday's post, which ever band is on stage runs for cover each afternoon as the rain, thunder, and lightening begin. And like all student events, they have a "Meet the Prof" table where you can meet with your professors - but this time over a beer. It is Munich, after all.

Reality Check

So yesterday I did a post about the great outdoors around Munich. And it’s true. Munich has some great opportunities for enjoying the outdoors – generally better than most places on earth. However, I thought I would share a good dose of reality with you – what Spring is really like in Munich. I have not been here long enough to know if this is normal or not, but we have had three straight weeks of rain. And I’m not talking about a quick sprinkle through town. I’m talking about a torrential downpour happening every day of the week. The thing that is a bit misleading is it seems quite sunny and nice in the morning, only to be caught with heavy rain, winds, and a 15 degree (Fahrenheit) drop in temperature as the day goes along. As much as I am impressed with Munich, it makes being here incredibly depressing as it feels like nighttime at 3 in the afternoon. So get out while you can and enjoy the two hours of sun in the morning before the monsoon comes through town. Between you and me…I can’t wait til this pattern ends.

The Great Outdoors

Jack Wolfskin may not be a Munich-based company (it is based in Idstein, 200 KM Northwest of Munich), but fewer brands are more engrained in the Munich outdoor lifestyle than this outdoor apparel, footwear, and equipment manufacturer and retailer. Jack Wolfskin is generally listed as one of Munich’s coolest assets, and a celebrated part of the culture as it becomes more and more fashionable and used in everyday situations rather than in the extreme outdoors. I tend to think of the brand as being very similar to Timberland, but there are claims that Jack Wolfskin is the largest outdoor clothing manufacturer in the world – although I can’t confirm. It. The company was founded in 1981, and now has stores across Europe and Asia selling everything from mountaineering to leisure clothing.

From Heine's Home to Home Store

Just North of Sendlingertor on Hackenstrasse 4, is the former home of German poet, journalist, and literary critic – Christian Johann Heinrich Heine. Heine was best known for his lyric poetry, much of which was set to music in the form of art songs by German Composers. Heine lived from 1797 until 1856, and lived in Munich for a very short time from 1827-1828. He was born in Dusseldorf and spent time in Hamburg, Gottingen, Bonn & Berlin. In 1825, just before moving to Munich, Heine converted from Judaism to Lutheranism, as Jews had severe restrictions in many German states at the time, and this prevented him from an academic career. He described this move as a “ticket of admission into European culture.” The elegant home is today the home of the Radspielerhaus, which today houses another Munich establishment, Radspieler a quality home and furniture store.

Where Good Beer Comes From

With all the beer production in Munich, there’s no shortage of key ingredients around here. I came across this barley farm at Inhausen, a small community North of Munich. You find similar farms around Munich growing hops as well. And that’s where the great beer production starts. Combine these two with water, hops and yeast – and you have an industry to power the region. You actually don’t need to go far outside Munich to run into these farms, as the moment you leave the urban boundary you are in the middle of farmland.

Catching Air

A paraglider works on his technique at the city boundary of Munich. Like most outdoor sports, paragliding is quite popular in Munich and surrounding area. There are two flight schools around Munich, including Fly for Fun, and Flagschule Chiemsee – both organized by the German Hang gliding and Paragliding Federation. The speed range of paragliders is typically 20-60 kilometers per hour. Unlike parachutes, which are used for descending, paragliders are used specifically for ascending and are often called ascending parachutes. Along those lines, this athlete struggles to stay afoot, as you see the neighborhood of Am Hart in the distance.

Ready…Aim…Fire

A shooter’s view at one of the most recognized shooting ranges in the world, The Olympic Shooting facility north of Munich, which was built for the 1972 Olympics. The facility received a several million euro face-lift over the past few years as it hosted the ISSF World Cup back in May, and will host the world shooting championships in 2010. A big part of that renovation was adding a new five-range shotgun venue, as well as five new Olympic Bunkers with superimposed skeet fields. All five bunkers are connected by a service tunnel that parallels the shooting stations. The facility is quite interesting in that it has its own sub-culture, which most people don’t get to see. When I stopped by, there were only about 10 shooters in what seemed about 150 shooting bays. They were all “kitted out” with the latest firing outfits, equipment, and attitude. When someone saw me taking pictures, I was promptly chased out of there. But then again, when they all have guns you get right back on your bike and ride, ride, ride.

Fashion Statement

But what is he trying to say? Lounging far up above the Tollwood festival at the Olympic Park, a young man kicks it and listens to the free tunes flowing across the extensive parkland. The man’s fashion choices caught many an eye in Munich, which isn’t prone to bright colors, individual style, and getting noticed. So what is Munich’s style? I’d describe most as quite casual and a bit dark. Jeans are the norm, and if you want to dress up you wear a button-down and a sport coat. Some people love the casual lifestyle in Munich. I don’t mind it, but also feel that when you go to a theatre performance, opera or ballet, you find some way to get out of your butt out of the jeans and into something a bit more formal. It’s a bit of brainwashing from living 3 years in Paris and 19 years in San Francisco. There’s a time and place for everything, I suppose, and in Munich – the time and place call for conformity rather than outspoken – which is why this is a-typical for Munich.

Flower Power in GBV

A quick glance at one of the vendors in the lively neighborhood-wide flea market of Glockenbachviertel (thanks Mia for the tip). Often shortened to GBV, it’s the neighborhood directly Southwest of Munich’s city center, and houses the Viktalienmarket, Gartnerplatz, and Sendlingertor. It is also a sub-area of Isarvorstadt. Today you find an eclectic mix of shops, cafes, and artist galleries. You will also find Munich’s most densely populated district, as well as the one with the fewest children. GBV is also the self-proclaimed gay capital of Munich. It’s name actually means Bell Brook, and is named after the businesses in the 14-1600s which made bells, leveraging the endless brooks that ran off the Isar River for power.

On Your Mark…Get Set…Go…

Here is the scene at the start of the Haimhausen Triathlon, just outside of Munich. More than 300 athletes jumped into the competition – with a 375M swim, 19.1 KM cycling, and 4.6 KM running – in what’s called a sprint triathlon. The swim was at Unterschleissheimer See, then the cycling travelled through Mooswiesen and past Ottershausen, and completing with a run in Schlosspark and a finish at Bavarian International School sports field. Of course, being Germany, one key difference is that you no longer have worries on the transitions. When you switch from swimming to biking, you just strip on the course and change into your next outfit. But then again, one of the other benefits of being in Germany, there’s a beer garden at the end of the race. Ah…Bavaria.

The Roar of the Crowd

Saturdays in the Altstadt is not for the weekend warrior – sort of speak. If you’ve ever been downtown on a Saturday, you know it’s madness. Don’t get me wrong, I love that Sundays when everything is closed. It leaves you with nothing else to do but spend down time with family and friends. This is a European trait that doesn’t exist in the US (as everything is open every day), and it’s something I hope we bring back with us to our time in the US. With that said, it puts a lot of pressure on the working families to get everything they need to get done on Saturday. And the crowds that take over the center of town resemble something more like the running of the bulls, than weekend shoppers.

Iran on the Isar

More than 500 protesters marched the streets of Munich today hoping to sound their unrest over the recent elections in Iran. I snapped this photo as the protesters passed by Ludwigvorstadt, the self-proclaimed middle-eastern part of town with large populations of Turkish-German residents. Yet the crowd was certainly a mix of people in terms of age, race, political beliefs, etc. I think it’s always interesting to see foreign communities in Munich step up to ensure their voice is heard – especially given that Munich is so structured around conforming. Unfortunately the situation in Iran became worse as the day progressed, with government police using a mix of tear gas and batons to disperse the protesters in Tehran.

Sumo Squeeze

Although I didn’t mean to align with yesterday’s post about plus-sized Germany, I came across this fantastic bike horn and I thought it was worth sharing. 90% of the bikes in Munich seem exactly alike, but it’s the little details that help them stand apart. Some have bright banners and details on the body of the bike, others have bright rims (I saw a bike today that looked completely neon), and others just choose to show their personality by the butt they squeeze, to get other butts out of the way. Actually, the only reason I noticed it was that people passing by couldn’t help squeezing it. I say, let er blow…

Split Personality

As with many things in Munich, you find contrasts wherever you go. I stumbled across this sculpture in the Olympic Park. You already know I’m a big fan of this extensive park built in 1972 for the “Happy Games” which didn’t turn out so happy, but what’s amazing is just how much is left undiscovered. No matter how many times you’ve been there, you will still find new paths, new areas to fall asleep on the grass, or great spots to rollerblade or bike through. But back to this sculpture – it was built in honor of the Olympic athletes that amazed the spectators of the games. The top athletes were Mark Spitz with 7 gold medals in swimming; Olga Korbut, the tiny Soviet gold medal gymnast; and the Soviet basketball team which upset the US team breaking their streak of Gold since 1936. And now to the contrast. Which of those athletes looked like this sculpture? This sounds weird, but I’ve discovered a slew of heavy set sculptures around town. Is Munich feeling a bit big these days? Germany has been established as the heaviest country in the European Union, but do they need to show it in stone, bronze, and marble?

Hidden Secrets of the Hofgarten

If you’ve ever been to Munich (for any reason other than Octoberfest), you’ve probably come across the beautiful Royal Palace Hofgarten. I love it there, and since I have posted several times before about this area, I figured I might try to share a few things about the Hofgarten that you may not have known. First of all the entire garden has been redesigned countless times over the centuries to follow the current trends. No renovation was more dramatic though than after the devastation of World War II, when architects restored its original grandeur. They focused on every last detail, even ensuring that the fountains were in the appropriate style and the flower beds included plants typical of the early 17th century. The pavilion that you see pictured is actually the Temple of Diana, named after the Roman goddess Diana, who was goddess of the hunt and later became the moon Goddess. On top of the pavilion is a bronze statue named “Tellus Bavarica” symbolizing the treasures of Bavarian land – grain, game, water and salt – although to see the original you will have to look in the Residence. The Pavilion has eight arches, and from each radiates a footpath that divides the garden into eight individual sections. If you follow those footpaths to the north and west ends of the garden, there is an arcade with 125 arches – designed after the Palais Royal in Paris. Finally, the Hofgarten is the first place to be named in T S Eliot's The Waste Land and is used to symbolize the dying courts of Old Europe and the empty charms of the aristocratic life. Now there had to be something in there that was news to you.

Escaping the City Without Leaving

When is a neighborhood in the center of town not quite in the center of town? When it’s Lehel, the neighborhood that wraps around the East side of the altstadt. I used to think it amounted to only the postage stamp blocks surrounding St. Anna church, but it turns out that it drapes the entire East side of the city. I love this area as you can easily walk into the Alstsadt, but each of the sections of the neighborhood have its own personality – from North Lehel (North of Prinzregentenstrasse), mid-Lehel (between Maximillianstrasse and Prinzregentenstrasse, and the south side from Maximillianstrasse. Lehel is said to be the city’s oldest neighborhood outside of the Altsatdt, also often referred to as Vorstadt – or urban neighborhood. As the neighborhood includes the Bayerisches National Museum, the Haus der Kunst, and the upscale shopping street of Maximillianstrasse, it is also quite culturally rich. But what I love most about this neighborhood is how you leave the main boulevards and you feel immediately like you’ve exited the center of the city and relish the true heart of a residential neighborhood.

Oh So Bavarian

When it comes to finding a lust for life, Bavarians certainly have it down when it comes to drinking beer. For an American who is used to largely “dry” states, it actually takes some getting used to (but I’m adjusting quite well – don’t you worry). Everywhere you go you find a beergarden, and when one doesn’t exist you just make one as you go – at picnics, school events, or even church functions. You simply don’t have events in Munich without beer. So I laughed when I saw this party coach. Pulled by a pair of horses, this group of revelers (quite the characters, let me add) rolled through the English Garden with the keg only inches away. Ah…beer fuels life in Bavaria.

Munich's Other Schloss

It’s been a long time since I’ve posted about one of my favorite locations in Munich, which is Schloss Schleissheim – located in the Munich suburb of Unterschleissheim. It’s near the Deutsches Museum of Flight, and is by far one of the best castles around Munich. You shouldn’t expect a Neuschwanstein, but rather expect a laid back parkland that happens to surround three amazing castles and a long canal which is the center-piece of the Baroque gardens. What started out as a renaissance country house for the royal dukes in the 1600s, today is an amazing complement to Nymphenburg Palace – with less than 10% of the visitors and what seems to be more formal grounds. I’ve never been inside, but there is supposed to be very important examples of German baroque architecture in the Grand Gallery, the wide staircase, the Maximilian’s Chapel and the four state apartments. In the end, it’s nice to stop by on a weekday when you seem to be one of only 10 people on the extensive grounds, and notice some of the wonderful details of the Palace (as shown here).

Munich Flea Markets

OK, so I’ve been quite laxed over the last few days about posting, but it wasn’t by choice. The lovely resort we spent the last few days at in Croatia shocked us with NO internet access. Yes…it’s true that some places in the world still don’t have persistent wi-fi, but perhaps you have to leave the European Union to find them. So I’ll try to catch up over the next few days. As this is a Friday post, I think it’s worthwhile to mention a weekend establishment in Munich. That’s the weekly fleamarket at the Olympicpark parking lot. Of course, flea market is not one word, but it seems somehow appropriate to pull the words together, as is so often the case in the German language. And what better to find in Bavarian flohmarkts but Gnomes. It just seems somehow appropriate. You can find other Flohmarkts around town. Here’s a list of most of them.

Culture Clash

I laugh every time I see something like this in Munich. It’s not because I dislike the graffiti, or because I am offended by the fact that someone would deface another person’s property. I laugh because Graffiti just doesn’t fit in Munich. Graffiti comes with this impression of some social unrest, a rebellious youth, or some sort of counter culture – that simply doesn’t exist in Munich. Like most places in Germany, you find order where ever you go in Munich. As one example, the few places you find graffiti in Munich are walls designated for just such a thing. That’s right, state sanctioned graffiti. It just seems counter-intuitive and wrong. At any rate, the image is interesting in the heart of yuppie Schwabing.

A Place in the Sun

OK, so we’ve had rain nearly every day for the past two weeks. But at the same time, we’ve had sun nearly every day for the past two weeks. This is Spring in Munich, and you can tell we are in seasonal transitions. But as you get ready for Summer, I think there are a tremendous amount of things to do outdoors around Munich. Here are some of my favorites, and a few suggestions from others. Bike, run, walk, sit, surf, skinny dip, sleep along the Isar. I hope you get the picture. Do anything (clothed or not) along the Isar. It’s great. Rollerblade around the Regatta near Schloss Schleissheim. Built for the 1972 Olympics, it’s 4.5 KM around and perfectly flat. Wander through the English Gardens and stop at EVERY beer garden you find. Bike through the Olympicpark, and explore all it has to offer. Try out one of the many outdoor pools, which are more like waterparks than anything else. Most people pay the cheap fee (usually around 3 euros), bring their lunch, and stay all day. For the hell of it, go test drive a BMW, and see how fast highway 9 turns to NO speed limit. OK. This is not outdoors, but find a convertible and call it good. Hang out at the endless cafes along Leopoldstrasse, and experience the heart of Schwabing. Wander between Nymphenburg and the Botanical Gardens. Like I said, there’s absolutely no shortage of things to do, so ensure you make the most of the part of day where the sun shines bright.

Slow Motion

If you want to travel a little slower around Munich than yesterday’s post, this is the best way. There’s something about hopping on your City Cruiser, finding a park somewhere, and getting lost in a book or two. The students around Munich’s University have figured out that the best place for sun worshiping (and possibly studying) is in the parks that line the near-by museums. As they are blocked from the wind, they make a perfect hide away. I like this picture because the soft lines of the woman’s shoulders and her bike are contrasted with the heavy stones of the museum. In Munich, there’s no better way to get around. You can get from the edge of town into the Altstadt in about 20 minutes, and there’s nothing like the fresh air along the way. So next time you are out cruising, be sure to find a park you’ve never seen before and enjoy the fact that you don’t have to be anywhere all that soon.

What are you driving?

Munich is a such strange place to drive. For starters, every other call is a BMW, Audi, or Mercedes. They are all considered luxury cars in the US, but because so many companies provide these as company cars – they are quite common. You even see sights like this, with a Ferrari or an old Jaguar cruising through town. Munich has a passion for driving that I’ve never seen before. Everyone seems to be an enthusiast. So how does that explain why Munich drivers are so incredibly bad at driving. You might think I’m exaggerating here, but they are some of the worst I have seen. Offense number one: signaling and immediately moving into that lane without looking. Offense number two: aggressive autobahn driving where the outer lane is travelling 100 KM per hour, and the inner lane is 250 KM per hour – which has led to a few high-profile accidents lately. Third offense: the bike riders on two wheels – who are so convinced they have the right-of-way at all times, that they will trample you if you cross the bike lane, and will ignore all rules or people around them. All I can say, is don’t mistake a passion for driving with the ability to drive.

Election. What Election?

What if you threw a party and no one showed up? That a bit how locals feel about tomorrow’s European Parliament elections. It’s the biggest trans-national election in history with 375 million European citizens in 27 countries eligible to vote as 736 members of European Parliament are elected for a five-year term. And in Germany, the vote counts most – as the country with the largest population, Germany will elect 99 members. In contrast, Malta, the smallest country, will have only five. Reports from early elections taking place in other countries around Europe is that the turn-out has been very low. At its peak in 1979, approximately 60% of the eligible voters cast a ballot. This year it’s expected to be approximately 40%. There are a variety of reasons – one is the feeling that the EU parliament doesn’t impact local lives. Yet several significant laws passed over the past several years do exactly that – like the regulation limiting the amount cell phone companies can charge for rooming, or the regulation that requires companies to show that the chemicals they use are safe. Is that enough to convince locals to go to the polls? After having an election in what seems every six months in Munich, I don’t think so.

Learning in the Shadow of Luitpold

A one-on-one doggie obedience course takes place under the obelisk in Luitpold park in Northern Schwabing. The park is a peaceful setting, especially on sunny mornings like this one. As for the dogs around Munich, they behave exactly as you would expect – quite orderly and obedient like this one. The 17-meter high obelisk was built in memory of Prince Regent Luitpold, who reigned over Bavaria from 1886 til his death. During this time Luitpold is credited as bringing Bavaria to its golden age, even though it’s usually King Ludwig II who is recognized today for his lavish castles across the region.

A Moment of Your Own

Sometimes finding a spot for yourself can be pretty challenging in the city. I’ve shown you the crazy crowds at the English Gardens on a sunny day, as well as the endless skin at the outdoor pools. But early morning at the Olympic Park can be a place of refuge, solitude - even if there are thousands of people already using the park. For most of Munich’s history, this place previously known as Oberwiesenfeld (or upper meadow-field), was largely unused. It was used as an airfield before 1939, but the Munich-Riem airport left the Oberwiesenfeld deserted and unused. The Nazis planned to use this area as the central slaughterhouse and marketplace, but WWII hindered those plans. After the war, the area became known as the Trummerberg, which refers to a hill erected from the ruins caused by the bombings in the war. After the war, refuges from the Hungarian Revolution camped at the US Army facilities. Because it was largely vacant, the area became a perfect place for the development of the Olympic Stadium. And today, for most, the Olympic Park becomes a space where one can compete, work out, discover, watch, or simply discover a moment on your own.

Back on the Film Set

A film crew moves back in to the parking lot behind the Paleontology Museum. For three days straight you could see the lineup of lighting trucks, vending trucks, and a constant flow of actors going in and out. I learned something fascinating about movies filmed in Munich the other day. I knew that classic films like Das Boot, Cabaret, and The Never Ending Story were filmed in Munich. It was a complete surprise to find out that “Willy Wanka and the Chocolate Factory” was filmed in Munich as well. That’s right. The 1971 children’s classic about a poor boy who wins the possibility of a life-time supply of chocolate was filmed in Munich because it was much cheaper than the US, and the setting fit the original screenplay. The director said he liked the ambiguity and unfamiliarity of the location. The external shots of the factory were filmed at the Gasworks on Dachauerstrasse. Most of the factory interior scenes were filmed at Bavaria Film Works. And the closing sequence, when the Wonkavator is flying above the factory is footage of Nordlingen, 132 KM NW of Munich. I haven’t been to the town, but it’s one of only three in Germany that still has a completely established city wall. The other two being Rothenburg ob der Tauber (244 KM NW of Munich) and Dinkelsbuhl.

Sign of the Times

Munich has seemingly refused any signs of economic crisis. I posted a few weeks ago about the closing of several large auto sellers, yet when you go to the city center it is swamped by shoppers. The National Theatre is still full before performances. There’s no shortage of nice cars on the road. Really – you don’t see all that much that would indicate any crisis. Yet throughout town, you see a quiet sign of struggle – as business signs disappear from entrances of apartment buildings. In Schwabing, particularly, it seemed that every other sign post was missing several businesses. I suppose even in strong economies like Germany (fourth largest in the world/biggest in Europe), and in one of the strongest economic cities like Munich (boasted by headquarters of Siemens, BMW, Man Truck, Linde, Allianz, and Munich Re), you see the struggles that are hitting small businesses around the world.

Beer Gardens as They Should Be

One thing I love about Munich is that you can find thousands of different kinds of beer gardens. This is no exaggeration. Every beer garden seems to take on its own personality – the beer, food, setting, people, ambiance, theme, etc. One of the best is La Villa at Bamberger Haus, which is in Luitpold Park in North Schwabing. The century-old building is a perfect setting on a sunny day to enjoy an Augistiner Beer. Throughout the beer garden are casual lounge chairs that strake a stark contrast to the buildings neo-baroque building. However, this is not the only contrast. For example, inside you will find true Bavarian food, but mixed with a menu of International fare. And in the basement, you have a Cantina – serving Brazilian and Mexican food. The building, which is owned by the city of Munich, was completely destroyed in WWII, but was restored in 1983.

What if Time Stood Still?

That’s the impression you get when you see this photo, with this elderly couple meeting at the fountain at Hohenzollernplatz. You wonder if they had been meeting there for 50 years. They were actually quite cute together, with him drinking his Lowenbrau Pilsner, and her doing her shopping in the surrounding shops. It’s enough to bring out the romantic spirit in all of us. This square, in West Schwabing, in some ways takes on the same character. It is surrounded by shops, cafes, restaurants, and bakeries, and in some ways reminds you of that scene in “Back to the Future” where Marty rides his skat board through the square in both eras. Many of the shops, as well as the small market, look like they hadn’t changed much in at least 30-40 years. With that said, it happens to be one of the best connected intersections in town – with the U2, tram, and bus lines meeting there. And having spent an afternoon on this very fountain absorbing the sun when I first moved to Munich, I also recognize that its appeal to those of all ages is…well ageless.

Flower Power Comes to Munich

Although there seems to be some believability to Munich locals dancing around naked (they do anyway in parks around town – as I noted a week back) on a deserted farm pasture in celebration to the 40 year anniversary to Woodstock, somehow I don’t see it happening. When I heard about the 40th anniversary, I was a bit surprised to hear that the week-long concert series was happening in the Olympic center Ice arena. Having skated at the arena and watched games by the Munich Ice Hockey team, I don’t see it being quite the same celebration. With that said, they have a long line up of bands to celebrate the 40 year anniversary of the “3 days of Peace, Love & Music.” I’m afraid this is one time that Munich is being shown up by Berlin, as the country’s capital is planning a concert at Berlin’s Templehof airport (recently de-commissioned) in August with 200-300,000 attendees. Michael Lang (now 65), the founding producer of the original Woodstock is contracting to Media Consulta to promote the event in Germany. Several bands that played the original Woodstock festival are expected in Berlin, including Santana, The Who, Neil Young & Crazy Horse, and the Grateful Dead. Yeah…The Olympic Ice Arena wont quite cut it. Oh well, if that doesn’t work for you there are two additional music festivals this weekend at the Olympic Park – the Spring on Festival – focused on Germany’s diverse rock, punk and hiphop artists - and the Theatron Festival – focused on highlighting local talents in the International rock scene.

Egyptian Dynasty

An Exhibit 3300 Years in the Making. That’s the King Tut exhibit, now showing in Munich until August 30th. This exhibit has toured the earth for many more years than the young king lived, as I remember seeing it in San Francisco back in the 70s. Apparently the exhibit has been updated several times over, and this tour enables you to walk through the tomb in full scale. Apparently this is the farewell tour before returning to its homeland for good. The exhibit at Olympia park covers 4000 square meters and includes more than 3000 images documenting every aspect of the discovery in 1922, and the following restoration and preservation of thousands of artifacts. Apparently, it’s the closest you can get to Egypt without getting on a plane. Photos of the exhibit and artifacts look stunning.

All the World’s a Stage

And although the puppet stage is quite small, it is not without fanfare and history in Munich. I came across this image in a puppet store located in lower Schwabing. Turns out there is a Munich Art Puppet Theatre, which has been showing traditional Bavarian tales since it was founded in 1858. I understand the puppets are made in the Bavarian and Austrian tradition of wood carvings, and stories often revolve around regional comic folk heroes. The Theatre is located just next to the Sendlinger Gate. If that isn’t enough to satisfy your puppetering fancy, you can try the Munich Puppet Museum, located in the Munich Stadtmuseum or City Museum. It is one of many small exhibits in the city museum, located near the Viktualienmarkt.

Courthouse Residence

In what used to be the far Northeast corner of the Altstadt is the Alter Hof or Old court. That’s amusing today, as it’s only 200 meters from Marienplatz. But excavations show that the building, often referred as the castle, existed in the 12th century. The castle has had some high profile residents, including Louis IV, the Holy Roman Emperor, as well as Louis II, Duke of Bavaria. It was used as the royal residence until uprisings made it unsafe for the Wittlesbach family and they moved to the Residenz. From the 15th century on, the castle was only as a seat of several governmental departments. The castle has five wings and in addition to the government office, it also houses the nice restaurant and wine celler called Vinorant Alter Hof. It has even returned to its roots, in that several areas house luxury apartments as of the past few years. Because it’s generally pedestrianized, this square sometimes gets overlooked by tourists, who often end up over at the nearby Hofbrau house instead. But it’s definitely worth the visit.

Anything is Possible

That was the look on the little boy’s face as his kite finally took flight. Like a jack-rabbit, he darted between the sun worshipers on the lawn of the Alte Pinakothek as temperatures reached into the 90s Fahrenheit. The same could be said for the building behind the boy. The museum was commissioned by architect Leo von Klenze and opened in 1835. Klenze was the court architect for Bavarian King Ludwig I and is also responsible for the Residenz, Glyptothek museum, and much of Ludwigstrasse. The museum was heavily damaged during WWII, and when rebuilt in 1957, the missing parts were replaced with bare brickwork, in order for the damage to be visible as lasting “wounds.” To see the building now is amazing, as you recognize just how little of the building was standing after the war. Today, it houses more than 800 paintings, many of them European masterpieces of the 14th to 18th century. For anything newer, you have to go across the street to the New Pinakothek, but please give the kite runners enough room to maneuver as you pass by.

Bavarian Picturesque

Yesterday I told you about the longest Castle in Europe, the Burghausen castle stretching more than 1 KM over the village. Today, I wanted to tell you of the village of Burghausen, which is no less impressive. The old town center is exactly what you would imagine in picturesque Bavaria…the buildings all painted unique bright colors. Highlights around town include St. Jakob’s church built in 1140,the Holy Spirit Church from 1325, the townhall with its classical façade originating from the 14th and 15th century, and the ancient government building constructed in the 16th century. Walking through the town is like walking through a storybook, not least because of the imposing castle above - running the entire length of the town. Excavations show the city has been inhabited since the Bronze Age. More recently, the town gained prominence as the second residence of the Lower Bavarian dukes, but suffered 300 years of commercial decline because of heavy casualties in the Thirty Years War, War of Spanish Succession, War of Bavarian Succession, and the French Revolutionary Wars – and finally with only 2500 inhabitants it lost its garrison in 1891. But for the past 100 years, the town has seen steady upturn with the establishment of the Wacker Chemical company, as well as the Deutsche Marathon refinery, and has gained regional fame thorugh the SV wacker Burhausen FC, and the International Jazz Festival. From Munich, Burghausen makes a great day trip combined with Wasserburg (see 9/28/08 post), two of the most colorful towns in Bavaria.

The Longest Castle in Europe

Sometimes you just need to get out of town. And I must say that every time we do, we are really amazed at the beauty of Bavaria. Today we visited the longest castle in Europe. Now consider that Europe seems to have a castle on nearly every street corner, so that’s saying a lot. Burghausen Castle is located just over 100 KM East of Munich, and is a great day trip combined with Wasserburg (another amazing city with a Sunday market). The castle stretches more than a full kilometer, is divided into six courtyards, and its first buildings date back to 600 AD. Each courtyard had its own fortified gate, moat, wooden drawbridge and history. Nearly all of its wealth came from the lucrative salt trade funneling out of Salzburg. Although the castle, which is built on a narrow hillside overlooking the beautiful town of Burghausen, has had many lives – most of what you see today is part of the fortifications in the late 1400s in fear of attacks from Turkey. Ironically, Turkish is the largest minority in Munich today. You can see views of the castle at night, and a panoramic view across the entire grounds. These particular crests show the Bavarian (left) and the Polish crest in honor of the marriage of Duke Georg the Rich with Hedwig from Poland, which took place in Landshut in 1475.

Market Colors

They say one man’s junk is another’s treasure. That being the case, there was a lot to treasure at Maxvorstadt neighborhood’s annual Flee Market. 60-70 residents displayed their most un-needed items such as vintage advertisements, toy Lufthansa airplanes, Mozart records, or old copies of Struwwelpeter (a German children’s version of Edward Scissorhands – of sorts). Also seen at the market were traditional marionette puppets, dirndl dresses, Bayern FC trading cards, and this Love van pictured here. Volkswagen cars and vans have reached cult status in Germany, and this has spread throughout the world. This picture shows what’s known as a T3 Volkswagen – the T1 was the beetle and the T2 was the original van with rounded corners – which was produced from 1979 to 1991. The key innovation in the T3, aside from its square corners, was expanded interior space by lowering the engine compartment. Then in 1981, Volkswagon phased out their air-cooled engine for water-cooled versions.

Bavarian School Strike

More than 400 Munich schools, day cares and churches staged a one-day walk out, with additional walk outs planned to support workers health benefits as well as protection for children with special needs. In addition to the 2700 workers throughout Bavaria, more than 15,000 people participated to show their support. It is reported that parents were informed and found alternate options for care as most supported the proposed changes. If a collective agreement for health is not approved nationwide, future strikes could impact the 200,000 members of the Union of Education and sciences – leading to many more scenes like this empty nursery in the Isarvorstadt neighborhood.

King for the Day

May 21st in Germany is not only Ascension Thursday, it’s also Father’s Day. So father’s throughout Deutschland were treated like kings – even if only for the day. In general, Father’s Day is celebrated with family activities, and this one was no different. This father spent his holiday at the Hirschau beergarden in the English Garden. In Germany, and in Munich in particular – they’ve really figured something out, and that is beer gardens. Hirschau (which is a fantastic beer garden with much fewer tourist than the more popular See Haus) for example, has a wonderful play park for the kids that is situated right next to the beer garden with really only one entrance & exit. Much like the French have figured out bread, cheese, and wine; in Munich they’ve figured out fried food, amazing amounts of beer, and the casual dining experience with kids that we’ve come to know and love.

Holy Moly!

Despite my assumption that this was some sort of evangelical church (because of its reference to holy ideas), it turns out that St. Elmo’s is creative agency and advertising firm. I came across it in lower Schwabing, just behind the US consulate. The firm, which was created in 2001, does work for Allianz, BMW, Conde Nast, Lufthansa, and Ludwig Beck. All in all, not a bad client list. This area of town I find fascinating, as you go into these back roads and off the main road of Ludwigstrasse. All of a sudden, it’s quiet and peaceful. There are only about 100-500 meters between the English Gardens and Ludwigstrasse, but it’s amazing how far you are away from the city streets in here. The streets are a strange mix of embassies, art nouveau apartments, university campus facilities, and quiet hideaways.

The Mighty King Triton

In the picturesque Nymphenburg gardens, you will find a collection of Mythical statues that add to the Italian garden’s epic appearance. The Greek messenger of the sea is usually represented as a merman, although this statue shows him in human form. Much like his mythical home, Triton lived in a beautiful garden setting under the sea. Although stories conflict on the actual location of Triton’s home under the sea (most believe off the coast of Lybia), they are consistent on his family order. He was the father of the goddesses Pallas and foster parent of Athena, the goddess of heroic endeavor - who became the patron of Athens where they built the Parthenon to worship her. Back in Munich with this Triton, the 500 acre park is quite a place to explore this time of year – either for the Rococo palace built in the 1600s as a summer residence or for the multiple pavilions that line the park.

Athens on the Isar

I’ve posted several times about the Greek influence in Munich – buildings like the Glyptotek, the Archeological Museum, and Konigsplatz. Most of these references have a history leading back to King Otto of Bavaria, who during the 19th century created very important ties between Bavaria and Greece through the Royal Academy of Fine Arts (pictured are the horses that flank the entrance). Apparently, after the Ottoman occupation of Greece which ended in 1830, Greek artist had very few opportunities in Greece – so studying abroad was critical to their creative and commercial success. Munich became an important artistic center for Greek artists, as they passed up the opportunity to study in Paris for the Royal Academy in Munich. This gave birth to the Greek “Munich School” or the “Athens on the Isar.” Some artists stayed in Munich, and others returned to Athens to retrain local artists and define the 19th century artistic movement in Greece. From that connection, the Athens artists formed the Athens School of Fine Arts – the premier art school in Greece.

Getting Close to Nature

I wanted to share this photo with you because it reveals so much about life in Munich. First of all, you have the nudity in public. Of course, I had to cover up the details to get this posted on Blogger, but you can see that Germans (especially German men) love to be naked (see story here) – on the seashore, along the rivers, and in the parks. Apparently there was a man who gained fame as “The Hammer” who regularly walked naked the English Gardens shocking uptight tourists. But after a while, you just start to get used to it. Actually Germans see nudity quite differently than most Americans. They view it as getting much closer to nature, which this person certainly does. The other thing that this photo teaches you about Munich is that the English Garden is amazing. It’s one of the best city parks I’ve ever seen, with endless trails, views of the river, and of course, beer gardens. And finally, this photo teaches you that Munich residents and visitors have a love affair with their English Gardens. As the heat rose on Sunday, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen such a sea of humanity in all parts of the park. Needless to say, there were traffic jams throughout the park as walkers, joggers, and bikers enjoyed the interesting views.

Munich Daydreams

What should we daydream about today? Perhaps it’s an ice cold Weissbeer at one of the hundreds (perhaps thousands) of beer gardens throughout town. Maybe it’s a long bike ride along the Isar river, to the point where you seamlessly blend from city to forrest. How about a short drive up to Garmish or one of the many Alpine villages nearby for a hike on trails that were only a month ago covered with snow. Not your speed, then think about trying one of the local pools and instead of taking a dip stop by the spa for a message and some quiet time. Then meet a friend at one of the many outdoor cafés in Munich for a bite and great conversation. What do you think she is daydreaming about? I came across her on the Isar near the Deutsches Museum and it certainly made me wonder. Spring has arrived in Munich, and the possibilities are endless.

A Splish & A Splash

I have to say that one of the best things about living in Munich are the amazing swimming pools. Growing up in the US, pools were quite one dimensional – think of a box with water in them. Yet the pools in Munich are like water wonderlands. Most facilities have approximately 5 different pools, one for babies, another for those just learning to swim, one with a river current, one for swimming laps, and another as a hot tub. I profiled the art nouveau Volksbad a few weeks ago, and every time I arrive at a new pool, I’m amazed at how well they are built. Pictured, you have the Dante bad, an outdoor complex that reopened last year after several years of renovation. There are two kids pools, water slides, one for diving, and even one for nudists (which Munich is full of – by the way.) Some people say it’s even better during the Winter when outdoor pools are warmed to 30 degrees. After having visited the Nord, Volks, West, and Dante – I’ve been blown away by all of them. Many of the outdoor facilities, you can arrive in the morning, spread out your towel, and stay all day long. Swim, sleep, whatever you like.

Potato Bread & Pastries

Bakeries throughout Munich are filled with all sorts of hearty breads and sweet pastries. One of the local specialties is Kartoffelbrot or potato bread. It is made by replacing a portion of the regular wheat flour, and then either baked or cooked on a hot griddle or pan in an oven. The potato ingredients can range from mashed to potato flakes. Sharing shelf space in the bakeries are a mix of blechkuchen (sheet cake), Kasekuchen (cheesecake), kuchen (every day cake), torte, Mazipan (almond paste cake or cookies), and krappel (doughnuts). Of course, no bakery experience would be complete without a Bavarian pretzel , and this site suggests that they’ve found the top bakeries in Munich for pretzel making - Discount Bäckerei und SB-Café, Hofpfisterei, Rischart, Die Backstube, Brezelbäckerei Ditsch, and Woerner’s Confiserie und Café am Dom.

Have a Coke and a Spire

The worldwide leader in soft drink sales, Coca Cola, has a strong presence in beer frenzied Munich. Here you see one of its many coin-operated soda machines with an image of a spire from the Frauenkirche and the gold Angel of Peace. The creative use of local images is only part of a restructuring of Coca Cola operations throughout Germany to try and recoup much of the market share it lost between 2000 and 2005. European Coke operations have traditionally been hampered by Germany, where Coca Cola refused to change its bottling to support a new deposit/recycling law, which led to negative public impact. In addition, they were accused in 2003 of blocking efforts to unionize, which led to boycotts in Munich. But Coke has had a major marketing push and revamped its distribution to maintain about 55% of the market – down from its 65% share in the 90s.

Urban Ellegance

During the 19th century in Munich, there was an appreciation for classical antiquity and you see it in architecture throughout the city. A good example of this is Lenbachplatz (see panorama here), on the Northwest side of the Alstadt. If you walk by quickly, you may miss it all together. It’s a busy intersection on the ring road, with tram lines twisting through. But if you stop and look around, you see an amazing mix of classic buildings, two small city parks, and the Wittlesbach Fountain (pictured here). The fountain commemorates the completion of the city water supply system, leveraging the springs in the nearby alps, and is generally what is used today throughout Munich. Built in 1893, its theme focuses on the power of Water and is build by Hildebrand, one of five fountains he designed. When it was damaged in WWII, it was rebuild and designed by Hildebrand students. The fountain is surrounded by elegant buildings, grouped with a view to picturesque effect, without any precise plan or close relation to one another – buildings like the Bavarian Stock Exxchange,Lenbach Palais, the old law courts, the Artists House, the old botanical garden, and even the ultra modern BMW Pavilion Showroom

The Art Nouveau Center

From the early 1800s to WWI, Art Nouvou appeared in many major cities throughout Europe. One of its European centers was Munich, by far the German leader in this movement known as Jugendstil, or youth style. The term Jugendstill came from the weekly Munich art and lifestyle magaizine, Jugend. Art nouveau embraced all forms of art and design: architecture, furniture, glassware, graphic design, jewellery, painting, pottery, metalwork, and textiles. And today, you can find remnants of it scattered around the Altstadt and places like Schwabing. The style is characterized by organic, floral and high stylized curving forms. The artform is considered an important bridge between Neoclasicism and modernism, despite going out of fashion around the beginning of the 20th-century. Ironically, throughout most of the world you are more likely to see art nouveau influences in the psychedelic art movement of the 60s and 70s. But in Munich, you can see it everyday – just walking down the street.

Rent-a-Wreck

Although I’ve seen a lot of accolades for the DB rent a bike and generally I think it’s a great concept – they are kind of dumpy bikes. They are described as high tech, but in the end they don’t look all that appealing and I hear of issues with how they run. Contrast that with the cool Velib program that runs through many of the cities in France and has literally transformed them into bike-friendly meccas. I think Deutche Bahn, which runs the program, just needs to put a little coolness into their fleet. Afterall, 15% of journeys within the city of Munich are done by bicycle. That is nowhere near Amsterdam’s 40%, but it is high compared to other German cities. I have a bike of my own, and before that I’ve liked the convenience of picking up rentals from the central station. Let me know if you have tried them. I’d rather get some direct feedback from real riders. If you are seeking any information on how they work, take a look at this site.

The Friendly Bear

When I first arrived in Munich, I thought the city mascot was the bear. I was completely misled by the bronze bear statue in the center strip of the A9 Motorway, which was actually revealed in 1962. Of course, I never slowed down enough to realize that it was a monument to the friendly relationship with Berlin. It turns out, this is one of several bears across town (this photo at the Elisabethmarket) that show the strong relationship between Munich and Berlin. I later learned that the official animal for Munich is the Lion, named after Henry the Lion, who founded the city of Munich in the 1100s. Ironically, Berlin’s relationship with its Bears has been strained over the past several years. In 2007, the central zoo in Berlin delivered one of its first baby cubs named Knut, which has reached celebrity status. But over the past couple years several people have jumped into the bear enclosure and have been mauled by some of the bears.

Bavarian Revolutionary

If this looks like the outline of a dead body, it’s because it’s a monument commemorating exactly that. This is the location where Kurt Eisner was murdered on Novemeber 8, 1918, just around the corner from the Bayershirhof Hotel on Kardinal-Faulhaber Strasse. Karl Eisner was a Bavarian Politician and journalist who organized the Socialist Revolution, which overthrew the Wittlesbach monarchy in Bavaira. Eisner was no stranger to confrontation, having been convicted of treason at the height of World War I for inciting a strike of munitions workers. He spent 9 months in Munich’s largest prison (to this day) – Stadelheim, which is in Munich’s Giesing district- 3 miles South East of the city center. Once released, he declared Bavaria a free state and incited the German revolution.

Fairy Tale Castle

And sometimes you have to go back to the old favorites. We had family in town recently, and paid a visit to one of Bavaria’s treasures – the Neuschwanstein Palace. The only thing I can say is it’s more beautiful than the photos. What would King Ludwig II think as he built the castle to withdrawal from public life? Afterall, more than 50 million people have visited the castle since his death. The castle opened to the public 7 weeks after his death, in part to help pay for his tremendous debts that he incurred in building this and other castles across Bavaria. Built as an homage to Richard Wagner, it is known as the fairy tale castle and was the inspiration for the Sleeping Beauty castle of Disney fame. The name, literally means the New Swan Stone Castle, and I believe it lives up to its name.

A Place of Peace

A few weeks ago I shared with you a photo of one of the monks from St. Anne’s Church in the neighborhood of Lehel. I found myself back there recently, and I have to say it’s one of the most relaxing centers of Munich. Where the church meets the main road (which is an overstatement, as it’s barely one lane each direction), you have a mix of cafes and restaurants and people coming about. However, you can find a seat next to the church and chill there all day. There are kids playing in the plaza. People riding their bikes through the neighborhood. And friends chatting over a coffee. I came across this interesting sculpture just outside the cloisters, which are across the street from the church. I looked all over for a plaque explaining who it was dedicated to, but there was no description. Like the monks who find themselves in anonymous prayer, this monk stature was meant to represent the many monks who have made St. Anne’s their home. The Cloister was built in 1727, and like the church was destroyed during WWII. For the church, only the façade remained standing. Both were rebuilt in the early 50s, and renovated once since then. Stop by some time when you get the chance.

A Night Out on the Town

We spent the evening out and came across a restaurant that completely blew us away. The only reason we noticed it is that we went to Killian’s Irish Pub at the back side of the Frauenkirche, just blocks off of Marienplatz. It’s kind of a hole in the wall, as it’s in the cellar next to the Austrailian Bar, but it’s fun and often has live music. And oh yeah, it happens to be an English speaking oasis. Well, they’ve brought tables/chairs into the courtyard because of the good weather, and we enjoyed a good pint or two outside. Just next to Killian’s is a restaurant called Guido al Duomo. Now I made a point when I started this blog that I WOULD NOT endorse restaurants. But this one was so surprising – one for the incredible seafood, two for the fantastic staff, and three for the host who also manages the wine shop next door. Whatever you do. Don’t let him talk you into a 60 euro bottle of wine. There’s an amazing amount of good wine around town that can be had on the cheap. But definitely take his advice on food, as the specials are often amazing.

Outdoor Study Program

The warm weather has brought everyone out to the parks, including the University students – even those still in class. This park south of the central station makes for a great setting for studies. With two major universities in Munich, there’s an estimated 86,000 students around when term is in, or about 6% of the Munich population. That may not seem like much, but with the schools centered around Maxvorstadt and Schwabing, the entire neighborhood is transformed during the school year – apartments, restaurants, cafes, and parks. It’s almost time for the end of the year, where these parts of town will seem just a little lonely without them.

Show Me The Money!

This lovely looking logo is the crest for the pension offices in Munich. You can think of the pension system like the US Social Security System. And like the US version, the German system has come under lots of criticism of barrowing from today’s workers to pay for today’s retirees. With low birth rates and increasing life expectancy in Germany, there are fewer workers financing and more retirees receiving. There is a famous saying by a German minister “Die Renten sind sicher” (the pensions are secured) which is met with much skepticism. Most economists today believe, like in the us, that the current generation will only see a small portion of what they put into the system.

Alice in Jogoli Land

Just beyond the Ostbahnhof is an indoor/outdoor play area for kids that is simply fantastic – Jogoli’s Fantastic Kinderworld. We showed up at 11 am on a Sunday and we seemed to be the only ones there. They have all the usual suspects for kids – ball room, three floors of climbing structure, lots of toys to play with, and plenty of hands-on games. We have been to others around town, like Lollihop which is much more extensive, but this was great as there was only one way in/out; so you could drop off your kids and let them run wild. They even have a business lounge with wireless access so you can do a post or two while you are watching the kids through their multiple video surveillance system. This particular spot includes a castle, a pool, and an Alice in Wonderland theme area. If you’re not toting around kids, then try The Beach, a bar that has multiple beach volleyball courts.

Gucci, Gucci Gu

When I stopped to take a phone of Munich’s one Gucci store on the extravagant Maximillian strasse, how appropriate it was that a woman walks by wearing a sequent dress and carrying a bag that could have been bought by the Italian luxury retailer. Gucci opened its Munich store in December of 2008 to much glitz and glamour. You can see photos of the event here. Many German actors, models and celebrities showed up for the party. Despite all the cheap imitation bags, Gucci sure has figured this image thing out. It’s the largest selling Italian brand in the world generated $8.2 billion worldwide in 2008, and the 45th most recognized brand in the world, according to Business Week. The company was created in 1921 by Cuccio Gucci to the south in Florence, and today operates 425 stores worldwide. It reached its height of stature in the 1960s with stars like Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly and Jacqueline Onassis toting its products, but by the 80s had been labeled a tacky airport brand by Vanity Fair. It was a family shake up in 1983 that for the first time in years left a single person, Marizio Gucci, running the company – and brought the brand back to prominence. And culturally, the product is everywhere and a mainstay in Hollywood, with mentions in Pretty Woman, Main in Manhattan, Legally Blond, the Devil wears Prada, and Sex in the City

Always Remembering

In the heart of what was Nazi Germany, where it all started as Adolf Hitler came to power, is a platz paying tribute to the victims of the concentration camps during WWII. It is surprising to see as the Germans are so conflicted by their role (good and bad) in the effort that ended up killing more than 6 million Jews, and they certainly don’t share their perspective openly with outsiders. In the square stands an everlasting flame of hope and a constant reminder that hovers at the entry of the Maxvorstadt neighborhood. The flame is part of the 2.5 meter high basalt Tele as a symbolic prison in a dish of an eternal light.

Fields of Gold

The Mustard Seeds have returned in and around Munich. As you get to the city boundary of Munich, the terrain quickly turns to farmland all around the city. And in many of the fields through Bavaria, Austria, and Switzerland you will find fields of gold, mustard gold or senf gold as it is known in German. Munich has its own flavor called Munich Mustard, a unique blend of mixing mustard seeds with water, vinegar, etc, to turn this plant into the condiment that is loved throughout Bavaria. The seeds can also be pressed to make mustard oil and the edible leaves can be eaten as mustard greens. They all end up on wurst or pretzels, and the locals can’t seem to get enough of it. As much as Americans love Ketchup, the Bavarians love mustard.

Opera in the Afternoon

Steep in the tradition of great composers such as Wagner and Strauss, the National Theater in Munich today is home of the Bayerische Staatsoper and Staatsballett or Bavarian State Opera and Ballet. The original construction was actually built to Wagner’s specifications in 1750, and described as a Rococo gem. I ended up catching this shot during a break in one of the afternoon performances, where theatergoers spilled out into the streets in their finest wares. The theater that stands today is the third on this location, reconstructing after it burned down in 1823, and then after the bombing of WWII. Architect Gerhard Graubner recreated the builing in 1963 based upon the original neo-classical 2100 seat theater.

Purple Power

I came across this stylish store awning in Schwabing the other day. Schwabing packs in the most versatile shops and restaurants in town, and this is only one example. I say it’s versatile because you go from the cheap cafes and restaurants along Leopoldstrasse to the friendly neighborhood restaurants and shops on the side streets. The district is home to more of the ethnic restaurants than any other part of town. You will find good Thai, Indian, Afgani, Lebonese and many more. The shops are the same way, going from cheap trinket shops to designer clothes. Schwabing is also where you will find the highest number of galleries in town.

Studying the Classics

A quick glance at Munich’s Wilhelmgymnasium, a well-known secondary school just outside the Altstadt. A gymnasium is a type of school providing secondary education in many parts of Europe, where students study classics like Latin, English and Ancient Greek. The word gymnasium was used in ancient Greece, meaning the combination of both physical and intellectual education of young men. Today the gymnasium prepares pupils to enter University for advanced academic study. The Wilhelmgymnasium is the oldest grammar school in Munich, and has had many famous graduates, and has been rated the best of all schools in Bavaria. I actually knew little of this when I took the photo. I just liked how this classic image fit into the urban scene.

You Look Marvelous!

Although I think the claim is easily debated, I’m told that Munich is the second largest publishing or “Verlag” center outside New York. There are more than 250 publishing companies with offices in Munich. This includes giants like IDG, Burda, and CMP. In fact, Bogenhausen has been labeled Munich’s Publishing District. With so many publishing houses, it’s not uncommon to see photo shoots going on around town on just about any sunny day. I’m not sure what this particular photo shoot was for, but sometimes I think it’s more interesting to watch the crew than the models. This entire group was speaking English and moving throughout the Maxvorstadt neighborhood.

Oh Brother, Where art thou?

In Lehel, of course. One of the brothers at St. Anna’s monastic church walks from the church to the Kloisters across the street. The scene seemed just a little out of place, but it turns out the church has a long history within Bavaria, as it was the first Roccoco church in old Bavaria (from it’s pre-1803 boundaries), built in 1727. Like many things in Munich, it was badly damaged during WWII, and the reconstruction was lengthy. However, in the course of the work, the church’s beautiful Roccoco façade, which was concealed since 1853 by a Neo-Romanesque faced built over it, was re-discovered. Although this neighborhood is small, it’s a great side of Munich with the community coming together in front of the church square – with lots of cafes and restaurants that spill out across the sidewalks.

Color Coded

Northeast of Munich is a suburb called Freising. I’ve mentioned it several times as the seat of power in Bavaria until about 1100 when the only bridge crossing the Isar was moved to Munich. In Freising, you will find a very special park at the city’s highest point, which looks back to the city of Munich from several hundred meters above the city. It is at the location of the Weinstephan brewery and the Munich University of Technology’s Life Sciences school. Despite the traffic from both well known institutions, there is a certain peacefulness you wont find in many other places – from the incredible view, the extensive gardens, and the exotic plants (like this pictured) that fill the park.

King Max Overlooks St. Lukas

Maximilian II, who was born in 1662, was known as Max Emanuel and was a Wittlesback ruler of Bavaria. He inherited the seat of power while still a minor and shortly after embarked on a military career. Shown here in this statue at the center of Maximilian strasse, he led the defense of Vienna against the Ottoman Empire, as well as the capture of Belgrade from the Turks. In the background is Munich’s St. Lukas Church, one of the most dominant church images along the Isar river. With its multiple domes overlooking the Isar, it has become a dominant piece of the Munich skyline.

Along for the Ride

Oh what a difference a few weeks makes. Everything in Munich is now in full bloom, and nearly every park you go to is filled with people these days. Everyone living in Munich was coupled up for a long and cold winter, and now they are ready to thaw out in the endless greenery, waterways, and nearby mountains. Today it hit 72 degrees in Munich, and the parks lining the Isar (like in this photo) were stunning. My suggestion is to grab your bicycle, ride for an hour or so, and then stop in a beer garden you’ve never heard of. It’s a great way to see new sides of Munich.

The British Are Coming

Even though this is the call from Paul Revere during the US revolution versus the British, perhaps it may fit on days in Munich. British Expats make up the highest population of English speaking foreigners in Munich, tied with Americans. There are 1.27 million people living in Munich, and Brits make up about 5000, or .4%. This is relatively low compared to other major cities in Europe, but ranks high among other English speaking expats, which include Irish (.07%), Canadian (.06%), and Australian (.05%). However there are plenty of other non-English speaking foreigners in Munich. The largest minority are the Turkish with 43,000 residents or 3.4% of the population. Croatians come in next with 25,104 or 2% of the population. Then comes a mix of Serbian, Greek, Italian and Polish.

Cafe Culture

With hundreds of cafes throughout Munich (I’ve seen a total of 364 listed), there’s no shortage of outdoor spots to enjoy the newly discovered sunshine. This couple stopped for a coffee after walking the dog, and they picked one of Munich’s better known cafes. It’s the Café Luigi Tambosi in the hofgarten, which is one of the better places around Munich to see and be seen. It’s on the intersection of Ludwig Strasse, Brienner Strasse, Odeonsplatz, and the Hofgarten. I came across the “Mycitymate” website that claims that Munich has no more decent cafes, but I don’t buy it. You’ll find all kinds of variety throughout the city. For a complete list of cafes by neighborhood, look here.

The Seat of Power

Through the arch remains of the former Bavarian Army Museum, now sits the ultimate seat of power – the 8000 square meters State Chancellery or Bayerische Staatskanzlei. This is the seat of the Bavarian governor – a national authority – and support to the Prime Minister. The key focus of the chancellery, is to represent the state of Bavaria outwards. The building was badly damaged during WWII and was later converted to the Chancellery. It holds a prominent position at the East end of the Hofgarten. What immediately catches your eye is the keen combination of new and old architecture. However, when the building was constructed, it was met with much criticism as locals created an initiative called “Save the Hofgarten.” Eventually, they’ve come to terms with this building as the developers agreed to a smaller design..

Selling the Residence

Of course, Munich’s Royal Residence isn’t really for sale, but that doesn’t stop a little old-fashioned capitalism. You now see this all over Europe. As renovations are done on some of the most historic sites, you generally see a canopy placed over the sight with a picture of the building, and then an advertisement slapped on top of it. I’m no traditionalists, and honestly it doesn’t bother me at all – but the most blatant form of capitalism I’ve seen around Europe was Kylie Minogue in her H&M Bikini on the Salzburg Cathedral. Only 29.99 for a limited time. This particular advertisement for LavAzza Espresso seems so much more fitting – with a sensual embrace in evening attire, above the Grand Canal in Venice - for those entering the National Theatre (which is right next to the Residence). We are in the Northernmost Italian City, afterall. LavAzza has made a name for the company with trendy advertising, but this is by far the best I’ve seen and I’m thankful that it surfaced in Munich.

Mary's Column

In the middle of Marienplatz is a lone column built in 1638 to celebrate the end of Swedish occupation during the Thirty Years War. The war fought in 1618-48 was one of the most destructive conflicts in European history. It was fought for the most part on German soil, and involved most of the countries of Europe. Initially the war was fought largely as a religious conflict between Protestant and Catholics, but eventually involved most of the powers of Europe and in some ways was a continuation of the Bourbon-Habsburg rivalry between France and the largely German Habsburg powers. The war weighed heavily on Germany as the foraging armies led to destruction of entire regions with episodes of famine and disease driving down the population of Germany. The column is topped by a golden statue of the Virgin Mary standing on a crescent moon as the Queen of Heaven, a figure that was originally located in the Frauenkirche. Crowds meet at Mary’s Column every day around 10 am to take a series of walking tours around Europe.

The Abbey on the Isar

About 15 KM south of Munich’s center is a stunning Benedictine Cloister, Schaftlarn, that has roots all the way back to 762. The Benedictine monks had a strong presence in Bavaria as several monasteries and Cloisters were founded around Munich at this time. In fact, the first priests to Schaftlarn came from Freising, where they formed the world’s first brewery at Weinstephan. For a long period between 1140 and 1803, as Germany was reduced to an array of small independent states, the abbey was passed to the Premonstratensian Order – a young order founded only 20 years earlier. By the middle of the 14th century, this order included 1300 monasteries for men and 400 for women across Europe. The Premonstratensian order actually built the current structure (pictured here) in 1707. But then in 1866, King Ludwig I restored possession to the Benedictines. Today, and for the past 100 years, the Monastery has become well known for its school.

Independent Brewing in Munich

Taking a slice out of Munich History, the Augustiner brewery is Munich’s oldest still independent brewery. I actually thought it was the only remaining independent brewery in Munich, as it seems all the others had been gobbled up by InBev, but it turns out that Hofbrau, Paulaner and Hacker-Pschorr are still 50.1% locally owned. As for Augustiner, it dates back to 1294 when the bishop of Freising (you remember Freising was the powerhouse city at that time) established a monastery just outside the gates of Munich. In 1328 the brewery gained rights to sell beer on its premises, which still exists today. The monastery was taken over in 1803 as part of Napoleons reforms, and the monks walked out in protest. Soon after, the brewery was denationalized and moved to Neuhauser Strasse in 1817 (where the restaurant pictured here still exists). In 1884 it relocated to its present location of Landsbergerstrasse in Munich’s West end. The brewery still maintains its own tavern, the Braustuberl, on Lansberger Strasse, which is subsidized by the brewery so the prices are extremely low. After visiting what seems like hundreds of beer gardens throughout Munich, I can tell you that the Augustiner Braustuberl is by far the most authentic of the beer halls I’ve seen. Very few tourists, and lots of great (and cheap) beer and food.

Munich - Simplified

I really like this photo because it wraps so much of Munich into it. In the foreground you have the beat up Vespa, highlighting Munich’s proximity to Italy and all the wonderful cultural flavors that adds to the Bavarian landscape. Although this bike is a bit beat up (definitely not German), you still get the sense you can hop on and ride from Schwabing café to café. Of course it is chained to a pole with absolutely no shortage of “guidance” (read regulation) about where to and where not to park on this street. Even the No Parking side of the sign has endless detail on when you can and cannot park there. And then finally you have the elegant window frame with a single heart of color sprouting out of the plants. You see scenes like this a lot in Munich’s Haidhausen neighborhood (where this photo was taken). Because of that, it remains one of my favorite neighborhoods of town.

Frohe Ostern

Spring is particularly beautiful in Munich, and Easter brings a lot of that beauty to the forefront. Many of the traditions are much like you would see in other Christian countries. I’ve seen it described as the same “fertility and Spring-related icons – eggs, bunnies and flowers.” The primary German speaking countries are Germany, Austria, and Switzerland; and they are largely Christian countries. Thus, Easter is an important holiday and most people have both the Friday prior and the Monday after off of work. Most Bavarians have raised the art of decorating hollowed out eggs to a fine art. On Easter day, families generally get together for an Easter meal, and afterwards the children search for eggs the Easter Bunny (Osterhase) left for them. Many families go out together in the afternoon for a relaxing Easter Walk. That’s the traditional holiday. Now a days, I think more and more people are simply getting away for a four-day weekend, as the city is quite empty these days.

Don't Have a Cow...Man

In a page out of the famous American Simpsons cartoon, the SWM plants stand over Munich like the ever-shaky nuclear plant stands over the imaginary city of Springfield. Of course, Springfield was coined “America’s Worst City” by Time Magazine and “America’s Crud Bucket” by Newsweek. Homer Simpson once said, “I think Smithers picked me because of my motivational skills. Everyone says they have to work a lot harder when I’m around.” The difference, of course, is that Munich runs and it runs well. And honestly, the city runs well because of SWM. Your energy, water, transport – all run by SWM. 3.6 million people visited more than 18 swimming pools run by SWM last year. More than half of all Munich’s domestic homes receive heating and hot water by SWMs relationship with M-Erdgas, while 1.4 million receive water purification. Finally the Munich Public Transportation company, is also managed by SWM. Almost every household lies within 400 meters of an underground station, tram station or bus stop leading to 450 million passengers per year. SWM makes the city run.

Contenplating the Classics

Munich locals stand among the classic Greeks. At the Munich Glyptotek, from the Greek root glyphein to sculpt, is the restoration of the top of the Temple of Aegina. Aegina is a short boat ride from Athens, and makes up part of what’s known as the Sacred Triangle. That Triangle makes up three of the most important temples in Greece, the Parthenon in Athens, the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion, and the Temple of Aphaia on Aegina. The museum, albeit small, was designed in 1830 to present the Greek treasures of the Bavarian King Ludwig I. Actually, the museum presents sculptures dating from the archaic age (650 BC) to the Roman era (550 AD). Having visited Aegina, it’s amazing to see such a well preserved temple, and even more interesting to wonder how the remains of one of the three most well known temples ended up in Munich. But that is another story.

BMW Road Warriors

A slick overhead view of one of the roadsters at the BMW Museum. I have written many times about the BMW World, the architectural wonder that hangs over the second ring road. But across the street is the “soup bowl” museum that tracks the company from its founding moments early in the 20th century, to its heavy aircraft production leading up to WWII, to defending a possible take over from Diamler-Benz in the 50s, to the global expansion of the 90s that included the acquisition of the Rover group (later sold again) as well as Rolls Royce. Today, the company successfully markets and sells the Mini brand of cars as well as BMW. The museum is broken into 7 distinct areas: the house of design, the company, motorcycle, technology, motor sport, brand, and series of cars. Next time you are in Munich, be sure to stop by the BMW World (which is free and has all the latest releases), but don’t forget to see where the “ultimate driving machines” came from as well.

Oh We’ll Miss Those Blue Riders

After the amazingly successful Kandinsky exhibit, the coolest museum in Munich (the Lenbach Haus) is closing for two years for renovation. The Italian Villa in Maxvorstadt will go through a $56 million renovation to update basic infrastructure of the building. The building was created in 1891, but was built up based upon multiple acquisitions of surrounding buildings. Then it suffered extensive damage during WWII, and in the end is ill equipped to support the dramatic increases in attendance. Although the museum was made for a capacity of 30-40,000 visitors per year, during peak times (like this past year with the Kandinsky exhibit) the museum can see more than 400,000 visitors per year. Although the Lenbach Haus will close, the Kuntsbau will remain open, which is an additional exhibit space at the entry of the Konigsplatz U-bahn. The current exhibit profiles Dan Flavin, an American artist focused on the use of neon lighting as art.

Munich’s Hells Angels

That’s exactly the image that Body Motorcycle Club (this is their logo) has tried to avoid. Tagged as criminals or trouble makers, the largest biker club in Germany has become very well known with more than 63 chapters in Germany, as well as 42 in Italy, Poland, Canary Islands, Slovenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Austria, Spain, Venezuela and Thailand. It was founded in Mannheim in 1972, but their linkages to the Hells Angels have apparently given the motorcycle club a bad name. Of course like many things in Germany, there is lots of Irony (Speaking of ironic, when I first saw this sign, I thought it was a union logo. Go Teamsters!). For example, the rebellious days of the Hells Angels in the US is long gone. In fact, the only people who can afford a Harley Davidson motorcycle today are yuppies who like to show their rebellious side on the weekends. But in Germany, travel is a way of life. There are three times the numbers of cars in Germany than when you cross the border into France, Switzerland or Austria. And travel anywhere in the world, you are bound to come across a number of Germans on the road – in mobile homes, fast German cars, or even BMW mortorcycles.

Neo Classic Munich

At one point in the early 20th century, all of Brienner Strasse looked like this, with its neoclassical architecture. The street, one of the original four royal avenues in Munich, runs past some of the most important monuments and best architecture of Munich. It starts at the Munich Residence, and Odeonsplatz on the northern side of the old town. It immediately reaches Wittlesbacher Platz, which is home to the Ludwig Ferdinand Palais. Then past the circular Carolina platz, as well as the famous Brown House, which was the headquarters of the Nazi party. Next up is Konigsplatz and home of the Glyptothek and Classical Museum of Art. The street ends at the beautiful Lowenbrau Beer garden. Given the streets importance to Munich, it’s a bit ironic that the street is named after the Battle of Brienne in which Napoleon defeated the Russian and Prussian forces. I say Ironic because there are fewer examples of German and French forces being aligned today. However, German (and specifically Bavaria) was well aligned with the French at the time, and the street commemorates the contribution Bavaria made in the victory.

Take a Walk on the Mild Side

The lingering sun has illuminated all sorts of amazing sides of Munich, many of which we have not seen for months. I caught this great glimpse of the late afternoon sun at the grounds of Nymphenburg Palace, a great place to get lost in Munich. The 490-acre Palace grounds cover a large section of Northwest Munich. Inside you find stunning stone figures of Greek Gods, which are just coming out of hibernation. Amazingly, most statues in Munich are covered throughout the Winter in custom-made wooden cases, and these are no exception. The statues are at the base of a canal that splits the grounds in two. At one time, a menagerie served as an attraction for the children of Maximilian IV Joseph. In addition, the Dressage Facility was used for Equestrian riding during the 1972 Olympics. 300,000 people visit Nymphenburg Palace each year, but only a fortunate few find their ways to the amazing grounds that surround the Palace.

…And then it was Spring

A beautiful swan looks after its new flock or cygnini at the entry of the English Gardens. Only 100 meters from the surfing paradise (at least by Munich standards) of the Munich Eisbach, the US consulate, the Haus der Kunst, and the busy street of Prinzregentenstrasse begins the peaceful streams that run the length of the English Gardens. Over the past week the mood around Munich has really changed. It is a city transformed. All of as sudden, it’s not just the swans that are coming out of hibernation. It’s the Munich locals that are coming out of hibernation, and they are met with beautiful days and beautiful evenings where it’s light until past 8 pm. In only a dress shirt, I enjoyed a beer on the terrace tonight. That’s the way Munich is supposed to be, and we’ve missed it during the endless Winter.

The Duchess & Duke of Bavaria

I caught this photo as the snow subsided, and the sun started shining for the first time this Spring. Munich has had the “never-ending Winter” which fortunately has come to an end this week. I love the colors in the background, which have become so common in Munich. The building in the background is the Arcade of the Hofgarden, which is the garden of the Royal Residence. Can you imagine this place in its hey-day from the 13th to the beginning of the 20th century? The grounds of the Royal Palace is where all the royal court strolled through the Spring afternoon. This was the home of the aristocratic class in the Holy Roman Empire which today is Germany. In Germany, all legitimate children of a nobleman became nobles themselves, and most titles pass onto all the children. Not all children became kings, but did become princesses, dukes and duchesses. All of that came to an end in 1919 with the Weimar constitution, when all Germans were made equal and any right or privileges due to nobility ceased to exist. Yet the German nobility continues to play an important role in the various European nations that have not abolished the nobility. In fact, most of the European royal families are descendants of the German nobility.

Neighborhood Naves

The beauty of being in Europe is finding average, ordinary, every-day churches that are extraordinary. I don’t think Europeans even notice it. When you have amazing churches on every other corner, what’s another one. But when you are an American and not accustomed to such beautiful architecture, such spiritual centers, each and every one blows you away. I’m not talking about St. Peters in Rome, Notre Dame in Paris, or even the Frauenkirchen in Munich. I’m talking about the churches in the neighborhood that are used as parish churches and have been a central part of the community for 100 years. A good example of that is St. Joseph’s Catholic Church in the North end of the Maxvorstadt neighborhood. It was built in 1898 in a neo-baroque style (buildings that display Baroque style but are not built in the Baroque period of 17th and 18th centuries) with one single tower. The entire nave was destroyed in WWII, reconstructed in 1950, and stabilized in the late 80s. That tower looks more than 200 feet above Jospehsplatz, the North Cemetery, and the shopping street of Agustenstrasse.

Foot-Long Fever

Why is it that the things that get exported from your home country are rarely the things you are generally proud of. Think about the most visible exports from the US – McDonalds, Budweiser, Marlboro. Subway is another one. It’s clearly not the best sandwiches, yet it’s super successful. Subway has 24 stores in Munich (this one on Gabelsbergerstrasse), more than 700 in Germany and more than 30,000 worldwide, covering more than 89 countries. Most are operated as franchises. Subway first ventured outside of North America in 1984, and now has more than 10,000 restaurants internationally. So know that you can pick up your foot long turkey sub in 31 locations in Saudi Arabia, 135 in Venezuela, 20 in Iraq, or 8 in Hong Kong. Of course, Munich is no stranger to investment from American companies. You can find the following companies with large offices in Munich – Amazon, Hewlett Packard, IBM, Intel, Kraft, Merck, Microsoft, Motorola, National Semiconductor, Sun, Texas Instruments, Wrigley, yahoo and many more..

Morning Commute

The sun came out today, and out of nowhere 10,000 bikes showed up on the streets of Munich. Of course, that is a made up number as I don’t know the real number of bikes that re-appeared today, but you had to be weary walking anywhere near the bike lanes, as clumps of 10 or more bikers would speed by. I honestly don’t know what the regulations are around biking in Bavaria, but it seems that all bikers are held above everyone else – including pedestrians, This particular shot was taken on Ludwigstrasse, near Munchen Freiheit. The thing that always amazed me about this street is that over the course of 10 minutes, you can go from the second ring road all the way into the center. Now that’s what I call a morning commute.

The Future of Air Travel in Munich

Of course, I’m not referring to the picture. That’s a picture of a Junkers JU 52, a transport aircraft manufactured in the 30s and 40s for both civilian and military service. The Ju 52 continued in use in air fleets into the 80s, but this one has been stationary for some time just outside the Munich airport at the 'Besucherpark.' But change is happening quickly at the Franz Joseph Strauss Airport, the second busiest airport in Germany. Because of the economic crisis, the airport has seen about a 10% drop in passenger traffic since last year, causing several lesser known airlines to pull out of Munich – such as Hungarian Malev and Clickair, a low cost Spanish airline. Also Air Berlin charter line is deleting many of their intercontinental flights to Bangkok, Cape Town, Maimi, Fort Myers, Mauritius and Cuba. At the same time other airlines like Turkish, Emirates, United, and Air Dolomiti have switched to larger plans on their routes. Strongest of them all, has been Lufthansa, which has really defied the downward trend by adding a third daily flight to New York and an additional weekly flight to Tel Aviv. And taking a long-term view, planning is still moving forward on building a third runway in Munich, although organizers face at least a two year wait (and a lot of angry protests from environmentalists) before breaking any ground. For me (I fly in/out of Munich once per week), I think Munich’s airport is one of the best in Europe with easy in/out, amazing efficiency, and good access to the city.

Garbage in/Garbage Out

One of the greatest benefits of living in a society that prides itself on order is FREE TRASH DROPOFF! With a dozen drop off points around Munich and the ability to get rid of just about everything, you may never have trash on your street again. Back in the states it would cost you $25 minimum per visit, and in Paris we never found such an important treasure. But there it was a bit different. Just leave things at your doorstep, and guaranteed they were gone within 10 minutes. Everything was recycled. But back in Munich, you can drop off cardboard, glass, plastics, wood, yard waste, furniture, metal, and about 20 other things I can’t remember. You just show your trash to the floor assistants, and they point you to the right bin. It’s easy and it’s free. This is a godsend for those just moving to Munich, and need to get rid of all those IKEA boxes.

The People’s Bath

All I can tell you is my photo hardly does the “Grandest pool in Germany” any credit. It has been described as one of the most beautiful pools in the world, but the signs to not take photos and the pressure (as with most of Germany) to conform was enough to limit my ability to really show the grandeur of these pools. There are two large pools with amazingly high ceilings, statues, fountainheads spewing water, and intricate ironwork – which resembled an amazing Roman bath. That’s the gist of what we saw in the common area. I’ve already committed to returning and seeing the rest of the public baths. Believe it or not, the baths were given to the city of Munich as their first public bathhouse in 1901 by a wealthy engineer, Karl Muller. He bequeathed 5 houses to the city, which boasted a combined value of 1.8 million gold marks with the stipulation that the money was used to build a pool that could be enjoyed by the citizens of Munich. So we did our part, and it felt like we were back in 1901. What we ended up missing was the steam room and private cabines, which contain a locker, a bed, and a bit of privacy after your swim for a quick nap. Til next time…

Sprechen Sie Englisch?

Seems like most people speak English in Munich, which makes learning German quite difficult – as it’s really not needed in most places. The majority of service industry employees speak English in Munich, which my understanding is this is quite different from most of the rest of Germany. Honestly, the only times German has been required has been when a technician shows up or when you get a haircut. Short of having poor cable service and a really bad hairstyle, survival is definitely possible in Munich. But for those seeking services focused specifically on native English speakers – try some of these. Website for English speakers: Toytown. List of English speaking doctors from the US Embassy or the same list of attorneys. How about certified translators. For English bookstores, try Hugendugel at Salvatorplatz 2, or Anglia English Bookshop. For food, try G&A Grocery Store, which is a good spot for peanut butter and chocolate chip cookies.. For entertainment, you can try the English Drama Group, or this list of English Cinemas.

Party Central

This poster is from an old party, but the club and the party scene apparently live on in Munich. Given Munich’s mild and early to bed/rise personality, it’s hard to believe that locals party hard. But if advertisements are to believed, the party rages on in Munich. Some of the more well known clubs in Munich include the P1, which was made legendary as a club for US-American Army officers after WWII, and is now one of the most popular nightclubs in Munich. It also happens to be located next to the Haus der Kunst. Other popular night clubs include the Atomic Café, one of the few located in the center, which is very popular among students; as well as M-Park, a huge club on Lansbergerstrasse with 4000+ sq meters, each room with a different music style from house to Salsa. Also of note is Backstage, focused primarily on rockers as a standard concert venue. And finally, you have the Q-Club (as seen in the posters), which is the largest club in the party zone of Kultfabrik (which claims to be the largest party zone in Europe - near the Ostbahnhof). The Q-Club has nine lunges, nine bars, and two galleries.

"Grüß Gott!" (Greet God!)

The Bavarian/Austrian phrase "Grüß Gott!" is as common in Munich as beer and schnitzel. You hear it everywhere, without thinking of its religious undertones. This saying originated in Catholic parts of Bavaria and Austria by priests in the 19th century, and has long been the most common greeting. With more than half the population Catholic in Bavaria, you can understand why the phrase became meainstream. It’s actually a shortened version of Grüße euch Gott (may God greet you). You see these types of salutations in many languages, and often their religious origin is even more apparent, such as in French adieu, Spanish adiós, Italian addio and Portuguese adeus – all translating as “to God.” But don’t take what works in Bavaria as working in the rest of Germany. If you say "Grüß Gott!" in Cologne, Berlin or Hamburg, you may get a response of "Wenn ich ihn sehe" (when I see him) or "Hoffentlich nicht so bald" (hopefully not too soon). (Photo taken at Freimann cemetary in Schwabing)

The Morning Commute

I’m an early bird, usually on the train by 7 am. At that point, the trains are open, lots of seats, and lots of space to work. At 8 am, it’s not quite the same as this photo shows. I would describe it as a packed haus. Don’t get me wrong, it was nothing like the sardine can that was the Paris Metro at 9 am, but for Munich natives who like their space and order – it was quite disrupting. While in Paris, I noticed that the metro at 7 am was filled with an ethnic smorgasbord, mostly people going to blue collar jobs – cleaning, maintenance, security, etc. The White collar crowd never hit the trains until around 9 am. In Munich, it’s quite different. The 6:50 train is longer and more crowded than the train at 8 am. Germans are early to work, and early to play – or whatever they do in the evening That’s true of just about all types on the morning S-bahn. In some ways, public transit becomes the great equalizer.